The Ultimate Nikon F3 Buying Guide: Why We Both Rely on It

Written By Edward Carter

The legendary, Nikon F3 with the HP viewfinder.

If you’re looking at the Nikon F3, chances are you already know a bit about 35 mm. Or maybe you’re just getting started and want something you won’t grow out of in six months. Either way, this is a camera worth your time.

We both own F3s, and we both still use them. Not because they’re ‘trendy’ (yuck) or rare, but because they just work. Reliable, solid, and well thought-out in the ways that actually matter when you’re shooting. No nonsense, no gimmicks. Just a camera that feels good in your hands and gets out of the way when you’re making pictures.

Why the F3 Stands Out

The F3 came out in 1980 as Nikon’s professional body and stayed in production for over two decades. It was their first pro-level camera with electronic controls – aperture-priority auto exposure with a proper manual override – and it was built to take a beating.

There’s a mechanical 1/60 s fallback if the batteries die, the shutter’s titanium, and the meter is still spot-on today. It takes standard SR44 batteries, which last ages, and the modular system means you can swap out viewfinders or add a motor drive if you want to build it out.

The design came from Giorgetto Giugiaro – the same guy who did Ferraris and the original Golf. It’s subtle, but you notice it. The red line, the grip, the way it all feels tight and balanced. Not flashy, just right.

What to Check When Buying

We’ve bought, used and sold enough of these to know what to look out for. Here’s what we always check:

  • Viewfinder LCD – The display inside the finder can fade or bleed. If the shutter speeds don’t show up clearly, you’ll struggle to use it properly.

  • Light seals and mirror bumper – The foam inside these cameras breaks down with age. If you see sticky black residue around the back door or the mirror sticking when it flips, the foam needs replacing. Not a big job, but factor it in.

  • Battery compartment – Unscrew the baseplate and check inside. If there’s corrosion, walk away unless you’re up for a bit of repair work.

  • Shutter timing – Listen to the slower speeds. One second should sound like a second. If it stutters or sticks, it may need a CLA.

  • Finder condition – Pop the prism off (if you can) and check for haze, mould or silvering damage.

  • Motor drive contacts – If you want to run an MD-4 motor drive, make sure the pins on the bottom are clean and intact.

Versions Worth Knowing

There are a few variants, but the core camera is the same:

  • F3 – Standard body with the DE-2 finder.

  • F3HP – Comes with the DE-3 High-Eyepoint finder – easier to use with glasses, a bit bulkier.

  • F3/T – Titanium version. Lighter, stronger, usually more expensive.

  • F3P / F3H – Press and high-speed models. Rare, niche, and often overpriced unless you’ve got a reason.

Unless you’re after something specific, any clean F3 will do the same job.

Extras and Accessories to Consider

One of the reasons the F3 is so satisfying to own is how expandable it is. The modular system wasn’t just for show – it opens up options that actually make a difference in use.

  • MD-4 Motor Drive – Bolts straight on and gives you auto advance, powered rewind, and a proper vertical grip. Shoots up to 6 fps if you’re using the right power pack, though realistically it’s more about handling than speed. Makes the camera feel even more solid, especially with bigger lenses.

  • Data Backs (MF-14, MF-6 etc.) – Some of these let you imprint the date or frame numbers on the film. The MF-6 also stops you accidentally opening the back mid-roll. Worth it if you find one working – but the electronics can be temperamental, especially on older copies.

  • Focusing Screens – The standard screen is good, but there are loads of alternatives depending on what you shoot. Some have microprisms, some have split focus aids, some have grids. They're swappable without tools, and useful if you want something a bit more specific.

  • Lenses – If you’re just getting started with Nikon glass, we’d say go for the 50mm f/1.8 AI-S, 50mm f/1.4 AI-S, or the 28mm f/2.8 AI-S. All three are sharp, compact, and easy to find at decent prices. The 1.8 is lightweight and affordable, the 1.4 gives you a bit more in low light, and the 28mm is a brilliant everyday wide – especially good for travel, street, or just fitting more into the frame without distortion. All of them suit the F3’s handling really well.

Price & What’s Fair

Right now, a decent F3 body will usually land somewhere between £200–£350 depending on condition and finder. HPs tend to go higher, especially if boxed or mint. F3/Ts can range from £500 up to over £1,000, especially for clean, boxed examples. But the same applies across the lineup – condition and completeness make the biggest difference. Don’t overpay just for rarity if you’re planning to shoot with it.

Why We Still Use Ours

There’s something about the F3 that just works. It’s not trying too hard, but it’s sharp-looking, well-balanced, and properly engineered. It does the job, and it feels good to shoot with. Whether it’s for quick rolls in the street or more considered work, we keep coming back to ours. Not because they’re perfect – they’re just right.

If you’re after a 35 mm SLR that won’t get in your way, and won’t give up on you, the F3 still holds its own.

Edward Carter